Monday, September 4, 2017

Negacija




I have a great occasion for a new blog post after four month break.. I was very busy during summer, sewing for my shop, without having time to make anything for myself.. When Camille from Deer and Doe patterns asked me to write a review of their new pattern, Azara skirt, I knew that was a perfect opportunity to squeeze some selfish sewing time.. And I didn’t stop there, I actually made the whole outfit – top and skirt.. I had my eye on this cute wrap top from ‘90s Burda issue.. In my mind Azara skirt with this wrap top was great combo, so I decided to make both garments from this cute black rayon with bees print.. I just love matching separates.. As usual, there's more photos than words in my post.. 



Azara skirt is basically a ¼ of a circle skirt, with sort of side panels (I don’t know the right name for those parts).. On my photos you can hardly see what I’m talking about, so hop over to Deer and Doe page where you can better see the details.. Black fabric is very hard to photograph, but I couldn’t resist making this outfit from this lovely rayon fabric I had in my stash.. There are two versions of this pattern.. Version A is button down skirt, and version B is simpler one with zipper at the back.. Right away I knew I would make a buttoned version..  The pattern is from their fall collection, and originally it’s planned to be made with the lining.. I made a summer version so I didn’t need the lining.. One more thing I changed, instead of making button holes and sewing buttons, I made my skirt with snaps.. I find it easier and neater that way.. 


The pattern comes with clear step by step instructions.. I’m not one of those who follows instructions.. For me it was enough just to take a look at pattern pieces and figure out in which order to put them together.. I didn’t agree with all the steps in the instructions, one more reason to make it my own way.. First, there’s that problem with circle skirts, even if it’s only a ¼ circle.. With most of the fabrics the hemline will stretch on those parts that are cut on bias.. I love to finish everything except the hemline and leave the skirt to hang over night so the day after I could make the hemline even.. In my case I used rayon, and the fabric stretched for about 2 cm at side seams.. There is one more reason why I leave finishing the hemline for the end.. I’ve made dozens of button down skirts over past couple years and from my experience one side is always a few millimetres longer (or shorter) than the other one.. I try to be precise as possible.. I always attach the skirt to the waistband, and after that I hem it.. I find that the easiest way to make even button down skirts.. 




The wrap top is from one of my favourite ‘90s Burda issues 07/1995 which I bought at flea market.. I’ve already shown you one dress from that issue, and there are more patterns I hope I’ll find time to try.. I have a Hungarian issue, where I understand only a few words – colors for tracing pattern pieces.. I slightly changed construction of the pattern and made ties shorter.. This way the top is tied at front.. There's enough interesting things going at back with that V neckline.. Also, I added those cute pleated trims as kind of sleeves.. That detail makes this top more cute and special.. 





This outfit is definitely a big success… I love it, and I feel great wearing it.. Azara skirt gained a lot of compliments from my friends who have very different style than me.. The shape is easy to wear, and looks great.. And I love that I started making more separates, because I’m in need for more tops.. Usually I make dresses and skirts, and I’m glad I have a top that goes well with my summer wardrobe..  


Behind the camera - Matija Vukov

2 comments:

  1. Found you through Heather Lou's newsletter. The pleated detail is pure genius.

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